Disruptive lace with dissolvable fusing, Form making - Pattern cutting/making
Threads and small offcuts
VS cotton and calico lace
sample contains a variety of threads, both cotton and polyester offcuts from previous projects. The larger fabric portions in the lace are a mixture of blue cotton polo remnants and lino printed cotton offcuts that have been dyed with indigo dye.
The sample has a rough and scratchy handle, it appears that the polyester thread used to create the lace has hardened/stiffened as the dissolvable solvent has settled in-between the stitches, creating a crunchy and rough net like aesthetic.
Proposed end use includes: snow gloves, footwear, accessories and outerwear (coats, jackets)
This sample has a stabilised foundation, as calico and cotton offcuts have been purposely placed in order to create an intentional collage of fabric overlays and thread overlays
Laced skirt front - Draped with both lace samples
Reversed collar top view
Reversed lace collar - anchoring at the neck, possible flower concept to hug the neck and encompass the head?
Reversed lace corset drape - pushing away from the body
Disruptive lace examples
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Disruptive lace examples .
Chalayan and Montes exploring the materiality and performance aspect of dissolvable fusing. Activating the performance in different ways creates a drastic ambience change and offers the audience a transformation that requires an ephemeral experience.
Hussein Chalayan SS16: Dissolvable collared dress turned lace bodycon dress
Hussein Chalayan SS16: Dissolvable collared dress turned lace bodycon dress - FRONT
Jef Montes presented his latest collection RESOLVER during Mercedes Benz FashionWeek Amsterdam. In a catwalk show, he made a personal statement about the current state of the fashion industry, in which a devastating speed and empty hypes are topical issues - Jef Montes, 2022
Jef Montes dissolvable dresses 2015
All encompassing design
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All encompassing design .
Examples from Far fetch clothing that demands to be attached to the body or display an anchor point of the body in a particular manner
Subtractive clothing created by lazer cutting and hand stitching shapes to envelop the body
SKIRT:
White faux leather
Button fastenings along front
51% polyester, 49% aliphatic resin solventless; lining: 100% polyester
Hand wash
TOP:
Black stretch-jersey
Ties at back
86% polyester, 10% elastane, 4% polyurethane
Dry clean
LOEWE Snood: Green suede, cream shearling Slips on 100% leather (Lamb) Made in Spain: Inspiration for adaptable watch outcome, quadrant can be round 1x1m to cover the body as a snood?
GANNI Collar: white/daphne blue organic cotton stripe print oversized front tie fastening scallop edge: foldable quadrant that acts as a collar, silhouette can be re-imagined to be bigger or have more ties - Trial for final swatch
Subtractive pattern making
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Subtractive pattern making .
1/2 scale bodice block draft, front and back
1/2 scale bodice block, paper tack up - Front
1/2 scale bodice block, paper tack up - back
1/2 scale bodice block, cotton toile - Front
1/2 scale bodice block, cotton toile - Back
Woven cotton backing, poly-elastane shapewear top layer sewn together with polyester thread
1/2 scale bodice pattern placement
1/2 scale bodice pattern outline and cutting guide: Due to the minimal fabric I had left, I wasn't able to create the 50cm x 110cm and only had enough to create a 50 x 50 sample which meant that the side seams of the final toile fitted extremely close to the edge of each fabric swatch, this is what caused the irregular points at the hips what can be seen in the final toile images below
Subtraction cutting toile front: Stretch fabric allowed for a fitted top, whilst the cotton backing created a soft drape from the waist down.
Subtraction cutting toile side
Subtraction cutting toile back
Beatriz Milhazes
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Beatriz Milhazes .
Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes is known for her colourful abstract paintings and prints. “Swirling with geometric and arabesque shapes, Milhazes’s works are kaleidoscopic, inspired by both indigenous Brazilian and Modernist European design elements. Works such as her Carambola (2008), show the influence of Henri Matisse, Sonia Delaunay, and Wassily Kandinsky. “I need to have all these elements and put them together, [they] are not peaceful surfaces,” she said of her work. “There should be some struggle on the surface, [to] create some activities for your eyes.” - Artnet, 2022
Beatriz Milhazes: Avenida Paulista. Installation view. Image courtesy of MASP
Serpentina (Serpentine), 2003 Screen print in colours, on Waterford paper, the full sheet 132.1 × 132.1 cm
Site-specific installation for the Jewish Museum’s lobby, NYC
Lucy & Bart
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Lucy & Bart .
“Lucyandbart is a photographic collaboration between Lucy and Bart Hess, generating imagery exploring how the human silhouette may evolve. The ad hoc duo worked close to the body, imagining the skin could sprout gills, becoming ecological skins, where textiles grow from skin pores and gender becomes fluid” - Lucy Mccrae, 2022
The concept of reimagining the body and it’s relationship with form can be further explored through subtractive pattern cutting and fabric manipulation - Trial various common and uncommon alternate methods such as seedlings to explore this .
Women's Tights and Balloons
Saw dust and grass seeds sprouted
Sawdust and grass seeds